Fried buffalo mozzarella with fish roe and vinaigrette becomes a fascinating and provoking start to any meal at this new restaurant. Apply dubbed Swine and Roe, this dish is a perfect example of the art of juxtaposition. Fried buffalo mozzarella makes up the primary piece of this dish. Two large pieces sit center stage, providing a foundation of both texture and flavor. The fried shell gives a crunch factor while the melted interior provides soft chewiness. Rich and creamy, the cheese provides the foundation. Fish roe steeply contrasts this rich creaminess with salt and the distinctly light and playful flavor of the sea. All of this is capped by (cured pork jowl) vinaigrette, which is acidic as well as fatty and rich. A brilliant juxtaposition of flavors, the roe and cheese are perfectly brought together by this sauce that simultaneously intensifies the flavors of both.
A whole roast haddock offering creates an entirely different experience as an entree. A full head-to-tail presentation (bone-in), this dish is sure to amaze the second it hits the table. As opposed to the previously mentioned appetizer, this dish is the opposite of clever and playful. It is a simple representation of fine ingredients cooked and presented well. Upon diving into this dish, it is immediately evident that the fish is of extremely high quality. The preparation of the haddock, however, is what makes it truly special. Crispy skin covers a moist and tender flesh that instantly falls off the bone. Seasoned with lemon and thyme, the only thing that could improve this dish is a supplement of (available for $8 an ounce). The adds a rich and earthy component to this already fabulous plate.
Sticking rigidly to their attention to detail, Stoic and Genuine has several side dishes and desserts that are of stand-alone quality. Baked-to-order corn bread is served with a side of room-temperature butter. Perfectly moist as well as slightly crumbly, this dish is a necessary addition to any meal here. Chocolate bread pudding with hot buttered rum is another must-try at this Denver Restaurant. Served as a slice with ice cream, this dish is not too sweet and not too rich. It is not too alcoholic, and at the same time, it is just enough. A nice sipping tequila provides a perfect beverage to accompany this dessert, complementing the creaminess of the butter as well as the underlying rum flavor.
Today’s restaurants can be so exciting. They provide a bold venture from tradition. Although this is certainly a good thing that provides much-needed progress, it can so often ruin what made eating out great in the first place. Stoic and Genuine manages to find the perfect middle ground in this debate. A marriage of old and new, Stoic poses new, bold questions. Why not use granite as a cocktail ingredient? Who says you can’t serve exquisite raw and hot seafood in the center of heartland America? Albeit, for a price? Why should one have to choose between great service and casual comfort? It boldly offers both creativity and properly represented ingredients and flavors. In the heart of one of Denver’s most exciting new projects, Jesinski has created a must-try destination.
